The Province or Aimag of Uvs. Facts and tips
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Territory - 69 600 sq. km. Center - Ulaangom town, Somons - 19, population - 90 037 Established in 1931. |
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One of the least visited of Mongolia's province lies in the Great Lakes Depression in the northwestern region of Mongolia, adjoining the Russian border to the north, Zavkhan province to the east, Khovd province to the south and Bayan-Ulgii province to the west.
The greater part of the province occupies Ikh Nuuruudin Khotgor - the Great Lakes Hollow (39 000 sq. km) which extends from the large Uvs-Nuur Lake to Khovd and Zavchan Aimags. Uvs is a aimag of high mountains of Khankhukhii, Togtokh shil that are the extension of the Khangai mountain range. The Buurug sand, located in the territory of the province is the biggest sand dune of Mongolia. It occupies 4,000 sq. km. of the aimag's territory. Uvs is a province of high mountains of Khankhukhii, Togtokh shil that are the extension of the Khangai mountain range, and maintains of Kharkhiraa, Turgen, Tsagaan Shuvuut, Yol yamaat, Zest of the Altai mountain range. The highest point in the territory is Kharkhiraa peak, its altitude being 13,123 feet (4,000 m.) above sea level.
The climate is strictly continental. This is the territory of extreme hot or cold temperatures. The average annual precipitation is approx. 300 - 400 mm.
Of berries there are wild cherry, cliff talus, black current, cowberry, strawberry, northern billberry, nitraria. Nitraria grow along the beaches of the Khyras lake, species of strawberry are found on the banks of Tes river, and cynomorium, agriophyllium grow in Zuungovi, Zavkhan somons. Wildlife is represented by antelope, black tailed antelope encountered in the meadows of Khyrgas, Kharkhiraa, Uvs lakes; deer, boars, wild sheep, ibexes, snow leopards, martens, wolborines in the Khankhukhii, Kharkhiraa, Turgen mountains. Marmots, badgers, foxes, wolves are found mainly in mountains and valleys. Uvs province is home to hundreds of species of plants, including larch, birch, cedar, pine, aspen and willow. There are also herbs such as yellow lily, sweetbrier, nettle and plantains, and fruits and berries such as buckthorn, blackcurrants, blueberries, strawberries and barberries.
Aimag's natural resources include ferrometal ore, copper ore, limestone, asbestos, coal, ochre, rocksalt, marble, precious and colored stones such as pomegranate, rockcrystal, mass agate. Uvs province has rich salt and coal deposits. There is a 60-tonne salt deposit on Shuden Mountain, 18km from the center of Davst soum, that could satisfy the salt needs of all of Asia for years to come.
Uvs aimag was originally named Dorvod after the main ethnic group that inhabited the area. The Dorvod people, who still represent 40.4% of the population of Uvs, speak their own dialect. Other minority ethnic groups include the Bayad (35.4%), Khalh (16.3%) Khoton (6%), and 1.9% of Torgoud, Zakhchin, Uriankhay and Myanmar.
The aimag is famous of historical and cultural sights, such as stone figures balbal, various types of rock drawings, including drawings of ancient sea fauna and flora on the rocks of the Yamaat peak, at 3,000 m above sea level.
GETTING HERE
By car. From Russia - border crossing point Tashanta / Tsagannuur (245 km from Ulaangom town. From Ulanbaatar - 1420 km, 2-3 days. By plane. To Ulaangom is three flights per week from Ulanbaatar operated by Aero Mongolia
COMMUNIKATION
Ulaangom Central Post Office provides the following services: local and long distance phone calls (24 hours), telegraph, fax and the internet. Here also operates few Internet cafes. In town is GSM connection operated by Mobicom.
ULAANGOM
Population 29 600. Elevation 939 m above sea level. Ulaangom, which means "red sand", is a pleasant, tree-lined town. It is a good place to hang around while you explore the countryside, or to plan a trip around western Mongolia: there are good shops, reasonable hotels and a fantastic market.
The bronze statue in front of the city hall is of Yumjaagiyn Tsedenal, who ruled Mongolia for about 40 years until 1983, and was born in Ulaangom. Opposite the town square, another statue honours Givaan, a local hero who was killed in 1948 during clashes with Chinese troops.
MUSEUM
This newly renovated museum has good displays on local wildlife and traditional life, with all the standard musical instruments, national costumes and Buddhist art, as well as an excellent shaman headdress, cloak and drum.
DECHINRAVJAALIN KHIID MONASTERY
The original monastery was founded in 1757 by Lamaav, whose name means 'monk father'. At the height of its glory, the monastery contained seven small temples, and 2000 monks were in residence but it was destroyed in 1937. The current monastery is little more than a wall with two gers inside.
PROTECTED AREAS
The Great Lakes Depression is a globally important area of wetland for migratory birds and is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Several other parks have been established in the aimag, which together with parks in Russia, Tuva, China and Kazakstan, form a Central Asian arc of protected areas including:
UVS-NUUR STRICTLY PROTECTED AREA
(712,545 hectares) Established in 1994, it consists of four separate areas - Uvs Nuur, Tiirgen Uul, Tsagaan Shuvuut and Altan Els. Between them, the protected area contains everything from desert sand dunes to snowfields, and marsh to mountain forest. Snow leopards, foxes, wolves, deer and ibex are among the animals protected. The area has been nominated as a World Heritage Site.
KHAN KHOKHII NATIONAL PARK
(220,550 hectares) Established in 2000, it is an important ecological indicator and is home to snow leopard, wolf and musk deer.
KHYARGAS NUUR NATIONAL PARK
Established in 2000. Based on the lake. This protected area covers about 3,328 sq. km. It also includes a freshwater Airag Lake.
PLACES TO VISIT
Geographical features of Uvs aimag, which are definitely worth exploring, are the Boorog Deliin Els sand dunes, east of Uvs Nuur; a duster of other lakes (which are nicer than the Uvs-Nuur), comprising Achit. The village of Chandiman-Ondor, a day's drive east of Khatgal, is in a beautiful area, which would make a good exploratory trip for hardy travellers. Surrounding sites include the Bulnai hot springs, about 50 km north-west of town, which offers simple cabins around a former Soviet resort. Further east, 30 km south-east of the Tsagaan-Nuur, is the Dayan Derkhiin Agui cave, considered holy by local Buddhists and shamanists, and a nearby ruined monastery.
KHARKHIRAA
First off, there are several Kharkhiraas. For information on Kharkhiraa-Uul and Kharkhiraa-Gol see the section below. A more accessible valley, also known as Kharkhiraa, lies further north-east, about 30 km east of Ulaangom town. Bear in mind that Kharkhiraa is also the name of a sumon center, 23 km south of Ulaangom.
KHARKHIRAA-UUL AND TURGEN-UUL
The twin peaks of Kharkhiraa-Uul (4037 m height) and Turgen-Uul (3965 m height), which dominate the western part of the aimag, are curiously almost equidistant between the Achit-Nuur, the Uureg-Nuur and the Uvs-Nuur lakes. As vital sources of the Uvs-Nuur, the mountains are part of the Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area.
The river valley between the two mountains is the Kharkhiraa-Gol, which inflows into the lake Uvs-Nuur. This valley is the start of some excellent trekking routes, which lead up to both mountains, and you could also do some fine day hikes around here with your own jeep and camping equipment. The area is mostly populated by Khoton people, famous throughout Mongolia as shamans.
There are remains of some Uighur statues in the region, but you'll need a guide to find them.
UVS-NUUR
The Uvs-Nuur lake, covering 3423 sq. km, located in the northern part of the Great Lakes basin in the northeastern region of Uvs province. At 84 km in length and 79km in width, this Lake is the biggest in Mongolia. The lake Uvs-Nuur is endorheic, it has no streams flowing outwards and has a salt content five times higher than that of the sea. There are 38 rivers that join the lake Uvs-Nuur, including the Tes, the Nariin, the Kharkhiraa, the Turgen, the Sagil. the Borshoo, the Khundlon and the Torkhilog. At the lake are salt marshes and all manner of plant life such as reeds, feather grass, various bushes and shrubs, sedge, willows and aspens. There are 362 types of aquatic birds, including swans, snow herons, spoonbills, steppe-hazel grouse, ducks and yellow-hazel geese, and 72 kinds of mammals.
Except for Mongolia's highest peaks, this is the coldest part of the country: in 1974 a temperature of -57°C was recorded. Summer temperatures typically climb to over 40°C, and these extremes are one reason why the lake was chosen as one of ten locations globally to be studied for climate change by the international Geo-Biosphere Program. The lake is part of the Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area.
Despite the superlatives, compared with other lakes in western Mongolia, the Uvs-Nuur is disappointing: it is extremely large, difficult to reach the shores and contains high levels of salt water. It is also not great for swimming or camping, though there is a small beach and camping area on the south-western shore, near to Ulaangom. Camping can be hell thanks to the mosquitoes. If you have a jeep, lots of time and a good guide, you will enjoy the scenery and birdlife, otherwise it is best to head for the prettier, smaller and more accessible the Uureg and the Achit freshwater lakes.
Ornithologists have documented over 200 species of birds around the Uvs-Nuur, including cranes, spoonbills, geese and eagles, as well as gulls that fly thousands of kilometers from the southern coast of China to spend a brief summer in Mongolia.
ALTAN ELS SAND DUNES
The road between Ulaangom and Moron passes the Boorog Deliin Els sand dunes, which apparently form the northern most desert on earth. The sand dunes lead to Altan Els (Golden Sands), part of the Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area. Altan Els is another wonderful area for wildlife, if you can find any. The Altan Els are on the border of Uvs and Zavkhan aimags, and are an easy detour from the Ulaangom - Moron road.
KHYARGAS NUUR NATIONAL PARK
The Khyargas-Nuur receives a lot less attention than the Uvs-Nuur, being only half the size and only twice as salty as the ocean. The lake does provide an attractive summer home for birds, but it is not as scenic or as accessible as other lakes in the region. It is still worth a stopover if you are travelling between the Uvs-Nuur and the Khar-Us-Nuur in Khovd aimag, or driving or hitching towards Tosontsengel in Zavkhan through the mid-eastern part of Uvs aimag.
On the north-west side of the Khyargas-Nuur, there are some fantastic hot springs. Head for the abandoned village where the road leaves the lake, or ask directions at Naranbulag. A national park fee applies around the lake, though you'd be lucky (or unlucky) to find a ranger to pay it to.
South of the Khyargas-Nuur, but still in the national park is the freshwater lake Airag-Nuur, at the end of the mighty the Zavkhan-Gol river. Despite the name, the lake is not full of fermented mare's milk, but it does have about 20 breeding pairs of migratory Dalmation pelicans. There were about 400 pelicans in the 1960s, but the numbers are tragically decreasing because poachers kill them for their beaks, which are used to make a traditional implement for cleaning horses, called a khusuur, or currycomb, which you may see in use at the Naadam Festival.
KHAR-US-NUUR
To confuse things a little, another freshwater lake in the region is called the Khar-Us-Nuur, but it is sometimes referred to as the Olgii-Nuur. The 20km lenght lake is accessible, but is not quite as scenic as the Uureg-Nuur and the Achit-Nuur lakes. You can swim and fish in the Olgii-Nuur, but the camping is not as good - the winds can be horrendous, so pitch your tent securely.
UUREG-NUUR
Large and beautiful the lake Uiireg-Nuur (1425 m above sea level) is surrounded by stunning 3000 m and higher peaks, including Tsagaan-Shuvuut-Uul (3496 m height), part of the Uvs Nuur Strictly Protected Area. The freshwater lake has some unidentified minerals and is designated as "saltwater" on some maps, so it's best to boil or purify all water from the lake.
The lake is great for swimming and locals say there are plenty of fish. The surrounding mountains are just begging to be explored.
ACHIT-NUUR
The largest freshwater lake in Uvs, the Achit-Nuur is on the border of Uvs and Bayan-Olgii aimags, and is an easy detour between Ulaangom and Olgii. It offers stunning sunsets and sunrises and good fishing.
The lake is home to flocks of geese, eagles and other birdlife. One definite drawback is the absolute plethora of mosquitoes during the summer.