The Province or Aimag of Khovd (Hovd). Facts and tips
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Territory - 76 100 sq. km. Center - Khovd town, 1580 km from Ulanbaatar. Somons - 17, Population - 94 500. |
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Khovd aimag is located in the far West of Mongolia. On the West and South-West Khovd aimag borders with the Peoples Republic of China, on North-West with Bayan-Olgii aimag, on North with Uvs aimag, on North-East with Zavkhan aimag and on East with Gobi-Altai aimag. The highest point of the territory is the Munkh-khairkhan peak. The peak height is 4204 m above sea level, and the lowest point is Altain-Bor-tsonj depression, its altitude is 1,126 m above sea level. 20 percent of the territory is semi-desert and steppe.
If you ask Mongolians what they think about the Khovd Aimag - usually answer that region known for its delicatessen melons, amazing meat and dairy products, the Altai mountain beauty and seclusion (even for Mongolia!). The aimag is rich in historical, cultural sites and beautiful places, such as Khartgai, Tsagaan burgas, Turgen, Khan-Serkh waterfall, Endert, Baatar, Buuliastai, Uyench, Bodonch, Botgon steep canyon, Sacred tree, Ulaan-khairkhan peak, Nuramt, Tsakhir and Thengkheriin caves.
The climate is continental. Winter is cold, summer is warm. The average annual precipitation is 122 mm and 400-500 mm in the high Mongolian Altai mountains.
There are natural resources of ferrous and nonferrous metals, construction materials and fuel, anthracite, iron ore, copper, lead, marble, granite, and ochre. Soils in the main parts is black, the mountains have meadow soil. The area beyond the Mongolian Altai mountains range has bright and saline soil.
Khovd is one of Mongolia's most heterogeneous aimags, with a Khaikh majority and minorities of Khoton, Kazakh, Uriankhai, Zakhchin, Myangad, Ould and Torguud peoples. Khovd province is home to a diverse range of ethnic groups, including Khalkh, Zakhchin, Torgoud, Kazakh, Ould, Mingad, Durvod and Uriankhay. There are many cultural differences between the different Mongolian ethnic groups in Khovd province, where numerous ethnographic studies have taken place. There lives 27 500 Khalkhs, 24 900 Zakhchins, 11 500 Kazakhs, 8100 Torgouds, 7600 Uriankhays, 7.500 Oulds, 6000 Dorvuds, 4900 Miandangs and less than 2000 Bajads, Tuvans, Uzbeks, Burnads, Darjangs, Khorchins, Khotons. In Darvi, Chanman, Tsetseg, Mest somons the majority is Khalkhs; in Manchan, Zereg, Altai, Yench, Mest somons - Zakhchins; in Bulgan somon - Khoshuds, in Khovd, Buyant, Bulgan, Yench somons - Kazakhs, in Erdenburen somon - Eelds (Oulds); in Duut, Munkhairkhan, Buyant somons - Uriankhays, in Miandag somon - Miandags, in Dergen somon - Dorvuds.
KHOVD TOWN
Khovd is a pleasant and easygoing city built near the fast-flowing Buyant Gol. Population approx. 35 000. Elevation 1406 m above sea level. The city is not prosperous but survives on an agricultural economy, food processing and some light manufacturing of building materials. It also boasts an agricultural institute and the main university in western Mongolia.
Once a small farming community, and later a center for trade with Russia, Khovd city is the major industrial center of western Mongolia. It was one of the last cities to be liberated from the Chinese, in 1912 (and again in 1921), by the forces of the Mongolian commanders Dambijantsan, Magsarjav and Damdinsiiren.
A small statue in the central square honours Aldanjavyn Ayush (1859-1939), a local revolutionary hero who agitated against the Manchus to lower taxation and who was made head of Tsetseg sum after the 1921 revolution.
GETING THERE
By car. From Russia - via border crossing point Tashanta / Tsagannuur (314 km to the north from Khovd), from Ulaanbaatar (1580 km, a few days). By plane - there is three flights per week operated by Aero Mongolia, and one flight per week operated by MIAT
COMMUNICATION
Khovd town Central Post Office provides the following services: local and international telephone calls, telegraph, fax and the internet. Here is GSM connection (in Khovd town and in villages Buyant, Bulgan, Myandag)operated by Mobicom.
THE MUSEUM
has the usual collection of stuffed wildlife, some excellent ethnic costumes, Buddhist and Kazakh art, and a snow leopard pelt tacked up on the wall. One of the more interesting exhibits is the recreation of cave paintings at Tsenkheriin Agui. There are also several examples of the deer stones scattered around the aimag.
ARD AYUSH SQUARE
is in town centre. Here you can see the general picturesque beauty of the town, and if you’re lucky you can see a fine show in the evening. There are several statues dedicated to Galdan Boshigt, Folk Ayush and “The Buyant River” song.
THE MOVIE THEATRE KHATANBAATAR MAGSARJAV
This is one of the town’s most visited places as it screens local and foreign films, including some of the latest releases.
SANGIIN KHEREM (MANCHU FORTRESS RUINS)
At the northern end of the city are some rapidly disappearing walls built around 1762 by the Manchu (Qing dynasty) warlords who once conquered, and brutally governed, Mongolia. The 40 000 sq. m walled-compound once contained several temples, a Chinese graveyard and the homes of the Manchu rulers, though there's little left to see. Three enormous gates provided access. At one time, there was a moat (2m deep and 3m wide) around the 4m-high walls, but this has been completely filled in. The 1500-man Chinese garrison was destroyed after a 10-day siege and two-day battle in August 1912. The one legacy of Manchurian rule which has remained are the magnificent 200-year-old trees which line the streets of Khovd town.
BUDDHIST TEMPLE TUREEMEL AMARJUULAGAI KHIID
The original Shar Sum (Yellow Temple) was built outside of Khovd in the 1770s but was completely destroyed during 1937. The monastery was recently relocated into the centre of the town.
THEATER
Here you can see folk-art performances, plays, concerts and other types of entertainment.
AROUND KHOVD
It is the most visited aimag in western Mongolia and the most popular place for tourists west of Khovsgol Nuur, mainly because it's a good place to start a tour of the west, and it's cheaper than to fly to Bayan-Olgii.
Khovd aimag is almost cut in half by the mighty Mongol Altai Nuur range; away from the mountains the land is a barren semi-desert dotted with salt lakes and smaller mountains. The mix of desert rock, salt lake, snowy peaks and Kazakh culture makes Khovd one of the most beautiful and appealing aimags in Mongolia.
Poplar, birch, dab rush, tamarisk and populus diversifolia grow everywhere. Berries include currant, strawberry, ribes altissimum and hippobophae. They grow along the banks of Sutai, Baitag, Uliastai, Jargalant, Bulgan, Khovd, Buyant rivers. Wild sheep, ibex, and snow leopard can be encountered in the high mountains. Marmots live in the meadows, whereas bears, foxes, boars, ermines, lynxes, wild cats, and rabbits live in the forests. Of rare animals there are wild horses, wild camels, saiga mongolica and wild ass. Their habitat in the Gobi is the south of the Altai mountain range. Also there are varies species of birds in the province such as condors, eagles, bearded vultures, upband burrards, hawks, snowcocks and kites.
PROTECTED AREAS
BULGAN-GOL NATURAL RESERVE
(1840 hectares). On the south-western border with China, it was established to help preserve mink (beavers), sable and stone marten.
GREAT GOBI STRCTLY PROTECTED AREA
(also known as 'Gobi B'). Created to protect khulan (wild ass), gazelles, jerboas and takhi (wild horses).
KHAR-US-NUUR NATIONAL PARK
(850,272 hectares). Protects the breeding grounds for antelopes and rare species of migratory pelicans, falcons and bustards.
KHOKH-SERKH STRICTLY PROTECTED AREA
On the north-west border with Bayan Olgii. helps protect argali sheep, ibex and snow leopards.
MANKHAN NATURAL RESERVE
South-east of Khovd town, preserves an endangered species of antelope.
TSAMBAGARAV-UUL NATIONAL PARK
(110,960 hectares). Established in 2000, on the border w ith Bayan-Olgii. It protects the snow leopard habitat.
PLACES TO VISIT
KHAR-US-NUUR NATIONAL PARK
About 40km to the east of Khovd town is Khar-Us-Nuur (Black Water Lake), the second largest freshwater lake (15,800 sq. km) in Mongolia - but with an average depth of only 4m. Kobdo-Gol inflows into this lake, creating a giant marsh delta. Khar-Us-Nuur is the perfect place to habitat for wild ducks, geese, wood grouse, partridges and seagulls, including the rare relict gull and herring gull - and by late summer, a billion or two of everyone's friend, the common mosquito. Be prepared for the blighters, otherwise your life will be a misery. The best time to see the birdlife is in May and late August.
As at Uvs-Nuur, birdwatchers may be a little disappointed: the lake is huge, difficult to reach because of the marshes, and locals know very little, if anything, about the birdlife. The best idea would be to go with one of the national park staff and to head for the delta where the river Kobdo-Gol enters the lake.
The easiest place to see the lake is from the main Khovd - Altai road at the southern tip of the lake, where reed islands also make for good birding. The park plans to encourage ecotourism by setting up observation huts and maybe even ger accommodation in this area. Check with the park office in Khovd.
The outflow from Khar-Us-Nuur goes into a short river called the Chono Kharaikh, which inflows into another freshwater lake, Khar-Nuur (Black Lake), home to some migratory pelicans. There is a dispute about which lake is the deepest in Mongolia: it is either Khar-Nuur or Khovsgol-Nuur. The southern end of Khar Nuur flows into the lake Dorgon-Nuur, which is a large salty pond. The east side of Dorgon Nuur is an area of bonedry desert and extensive sand dunes.
Just to the south, and between, the Khar and the Khar-Us lakes, are the twin peaks of Jargalant-Khairkhan-Uul (3796 m height) and Yargaitin-Ekh-Uul (3464 m height). You can see the massif as you drive to Olgii from Altai in Gov-Altai aimag.
THE CAVE TSENKHERIIN AGUI (KHOID TSENKHER)
The caves are reasonably attractive but the main is the cave paintings inside, which are approximately 15 000 years old (some sources say 40 000). There is also about 15 000 years worth of bird dung in the caves, so watch where you step. There are numerous passages to explore, with the largest cavern being about 15 m high, with the floor measuring around 12 m by 18 m. Unfortunately, some recent graffiti has marred the cave paintings. Controversy has erupted among experts about the interpretation of the paintings. It is interesting to note that both mammoths and ostriches are depicted on the walls, proving that both lived in Mongolia up to approximately 15 000 years ago.
MONKH-KHAIRKAN-UUL MOUNTAINS RANGE
The Monkh-Khairkhan-Uul (4362 m height) is the second highest mountain in Mongolia. You can walk up the peak if you approach from the North side. There is plenty of snow and ice on top, so you'd need crampons, an ice axe and rope but the climb is not technically difficult. A jeep trail runs to the base from Mankhan. The peak is known locally as Tavan Khumit.
TSAMBAGARAV NATIONAL PARK
The mountains range Tsambagarav-Uul is in the far north-west somon Bayannuur, is one of the most glorious snowcapped peaks in Mongolia. Despite its height of 4202 m, the summit is relatively accessible and easy to climb compared with Tavanbogd but you'd need crampons and ropes.
One excellent possible offroads route in this region is to drive from the main Khovd - Olgii Namardžin road to the Namardzhin valley, where there are amazing views of Tsambagarav mountains. From here you can drive west and then south to rejoin the main Khovd - Olgii road, via several Kazakh settlements and a beautiful turquoise collor lake. You'll need to be completely self-sufficient for this trip.
The other main area to visit is the Bayangol Valley, to the East of Tsambagarav, 100km and three hours of difficult driving from Khovd. A jeep road leads from Erdeneburen sum centre up the mountainside, following dozens of rocky switchbacks. The valley itself is nothing special but there are fine views south-east to Khar Us Nuur and you might be able to rent a horse for the hour ride to the Kazakh-populated Marra Valley. With help you could do a fine three-or four-day horse trek circling Tsambagarav-Uul, or to the Namarjin Valley.
THE LAKES AND RIVERS
There are the Kobdo-Gol, the Bulgan-Gol, the Buyant-Gol, the Bodonch and the Tsenkher rivers. The biggest lake are the Khar-Us-Nuur, the Khar-Nuur and the Dorgon-Nuur. For white water canoeing or rafting may be interesting the Kobdo-Gol, the Buyant-Gol, the Tsenkher and possibly Bulgan-Gol.